"God in a Cup"

Adventures in exotic countries, three driven men on a quest, passion, betrayal, heartache, ego, and a Geisha, all sound like the makings of action adventure film, Instead this is a story about coffee. Michaele Weissman’s 2008 book, “God in a Cup: The Obsessive Quest for the Perfect Coffee” is a detailed look at how three leaders in the specialty coffee world are constantly in search of their ideal, or perfect coffee. To be honest, it’s more than that. “God in a Cup” is a frank essay on the state of the coffee industry. 

To understand where we are now, Weissman provides a brief history lesson. Coffee has been through three waves. The first wave was prior to, and during World War I. Coffee was nothing special. It was a kickstart to your day, and processed in a way which took flavor and nuance away from the coffee.

The second wave laid the foundation for coffee as we know it. This occurred between the mid-1960s to the 1990s. Men like Alfred Peet, Erna Knutsen, and George Howell, created the specialty coffee businesses as well as the Specialty Coffee Association of America. These men were developing the art and science of roasting coffee, and introducing it to a society that was ll too familiar with instant coffee, or heavily processed coffee. This was the time Starbucks was founded(by Peet), and the industry began to take off.

The third wave can best be described as innovation, adventure, deal-making, ego driven and desire. It is this wave that Weissman focuses on. In particular she introduces us to three men who are similar and very different at the same time: Geoff Watts of Intelligentsia Coffee, Duane Sorenson of Stumptown Coffee and Peter Giuliano of Counter Culture Coffee.

Each man and their companies are laser focused on finding the absolute coffee, cultivating it, roasting it, and selling it to the public. Each one has their own style though. Watts is the adventurer. He is the main buyer for Intelligentsia in Chicago, and travels the world, living on the edge, taking risks to make sure he is acquiring the best coffee. Weissman describes him as the “rock star” of the industry. He takes risks, and people worry his risk taking will mean the end of him. “Weissman writes, “There’s some recognition in the specialty coffee community that the intensity and the fearlessness that Geoff brings to his work and life is the very quality that might kill him. Every movement seems to have a tragic hero, and Geoff may be ours.” 

Watts’ main rival and friend is Peter Giuliano of Counter Culture Coffee of Durham, NC.  Whereas Watts may be flying by the seat of his pants, Giuliano is more measured and more particular. His focus on the coffee is so great, it is part of the reason his marriage is failing. Weissman paints him as a man who, in his quest, wants to be part of something so special, the personal life comes second. 

If Watts and Giuliano are the adventurers, Duane Sorenson is the hippie, but not your typical one. The hippie movement was about anti-establishment, which Sorenson is. A few hits on the bong with him, and you get that about him. At the same time, he will spend whatever it takes to produce the best coffee in the world - period. Part Cheech and Chong, part Donald Trump. 

Once the major players are introduced, Weissman takes readers on a journey which introduces us to Cup of Excellence competitions, journeys to Ethiopia to learn the ins and outs of coffee politics, what is good and bad about Fair Trade coffee, and of course Geisha. I’ll explain Geisha in a bit, but there are also some interesting themes in this book. 

Youth is served. All the major players are in their 20s and 30s. This is good and bad from standpoint. I like the fact that coffee is drawing in younger people. They are innovating and working to make the plight of coffee farmers better. What is bad is for people like me. Selfish I know, but I wonder what role a 50 year old like me would play in the coffee world. I wonder this, because I wonder if coffee is my next career. Me aside, everything I read shows the baristas and the roasters are the younger set.

Coffee is the new wine. Throughout the book, the coffee guys talk about varietals, essences, aromas, tastes as if they are describing wine. I had not made the correlation previously, but why not? Why not experience coffee the way you would a fine wine. Both  products are agricultural in origin. Both are cultivated and developed for improved quality and taste. Both are sampled in similar manner(even down the the spitting).

Geisha seems to represent all the themes coming together. Weissman writes, “ Mention you are traveling to Boquete, Panama, and specialty coffee guys get a dreamy look in their eyes.” Yes, Geisha seems to be the ultimate coffee to these folks. 

What is it about this coffee which evokes a romance and desire? Geisha is primarily known as a coffee from Panama, though its origins can be traced to Ethiopia. The tree is a hearty tree, and the coffee is difficult to produce. Still coffee guys fall in love with this coffee, like they would with a woman of their dreams. 

This book is filled with Coffee 101 tips and information. There are plenty of stories about  how to bargain for the best coffee price. There are also plenty of juicy gossipy stories about the three big companies at the center of the specialty coffee world. 

If there is a weakness(for me), it’s the passages where Weissman places herself as part of the story. My interest was in what she reports, and not her impressions or insinuating herself into situations. I would have preferred she remove herself from the story. Still this does not deter how I feel about “God in a Cup.” If you haven’t read this, do, and you will gain greater understanding about specialty coffee.

Charlie